Wine production as a religious experience

The link between religion and wine is centuries old – leaving a rich legacy of fine wines from around the world, writes JOHN WILSON

WINE-LOVERS OWE A debt of gratitude to the Judeo-Christian religions. In stark contrast to other beliefs that ban their followers from consuming it, wine plays a central role in the celebration of the Eucharist for Christians.

It is also integral to various Jewish festivals. Wine is seen as a gift from God, to be enjoyed and celebrated – although over-indulgence is seen as a sin. Because of this some Christians, such as Methodists, believe in abstinence and temperance movements also have a strong religious element too.

The importance of wine in the Eucharist meant that historically the church took great care to ensure a reliable supply at all times.

Not only can the Christian church take some credit for retaining and improving wine-growing and wine-making skills throughout the Middle Ages, but it also played a large part in spreading vitis vinifera around the globe.

The church requires wine for daily services, so many of the monks in abbeys across Europe became expert in all facets of wine production. Canadian wine historian Rod Phillips and others have argued that the role of the church has been exaggerated, and that every country that produced wine under the Holy Roman Empire continued to do so after its fall.

However, as keepers of knowledge and owners of substantial landholdings, the monasteries played a crucial part in developing many wine regions. Some of the best-known areas, such as Burgundy and Champagne in France and the Rheingau and Mosel in Germany owe their existence to various religious orders.

The Cistercians, Benedictines and Carthusians were the most prominent. It was only during the French Revolution, and later under Napoleon that the great religious estates were confiscated first in France and then throughout western Europe.

The church was also responsible for the introduction of wine throughout South America and later California as it created vineyards to supply sacramental wine.

The earliest plantings were in Mexico in the early 16th century, spreading southwards to Peru in the 1530s (where the Jesuits became major producers) and then to Chile and Argentina by the 1550s. Two hundred years later, the Fransiscans moved northwards from Mexico along the coast of what is now California to plant the first vitis vinifera, or wine-producing vines.

More recently, Brother Timothy of the Christian Brothers played a key role in re-establishing the wine industry in the Napa Valley following prohibition.

Various rules apply for the use of wine in religious ceremonies. The current instructions from the Vatican specify that “the wine for the Eucharistic celebration must be from the fruit of the grapevine, natural and unadulterated, that is, without admixture of extraneous substances. Diligent care should be taken to ensure that the bread and wine intended for the Eucharist are kept in a perfect state of conservation: that is, that the wine does not turn to vinegar nor the bread spoil or become too hard to be broken easily.”

I understand that the addition of sulphur dioxide (which occurs naturally in fermentation) is permitted.

The Protestant churches have no guidelines, but in practice some form of port or other sweet fortified wine is used, as it keeps better.

In the Eastern Orthodox churches, natural red wine, usually sweet, is required. Denominations which disapprove of alcohol may use pure grape juice, a practice also permitted for recovering alcoholics.

Wine also plays an important part of Jewish religious festivals. It is taken at Kiddush, the start of Sabbath, and also at the end, Havdala. Kosher wine is produced in a number of countries under rabbinical supervision. All physical movements of wine must be done by Sabbath-observing Jews, who travel to the winery. In their absence, the tanks are sealed and may not be touched by gentiles. This can be quite an expensive process.

Certain fining agents, such as casein, gelatine and isinglass are not permitted.

The state of Israel produces wine, some of it very good, the best-known from the Golan Heights. The vast majority of Israeli wines are kosher. Kosher wine produced in the Holy Land is subject to stricter dietary laws, including a stipulation that the vineyard must be left fallow every seven years. Most vines produce their best quality grapes at 10 years or more, so in practice this is avoided by temporarily transferring the vineyards to gentile ownership.

These days, the influence of the religious bodies on wine has waned. A few estates remain, but most have past into private ownership. However, they leave us a rich legacy of fine wines from many parts of the globe.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Réserve du Révérend 2009, Corbières 13% €9.99Not sure how it got its name, but I can imagine the local clergyman enjoying a glass of this with his Sunday roast. Medium-bodied with herby ripe dark fruits and a gently tannic dry finish. Stockists: Mitchell Son, Sandycove, IFSC and mitchellandson.com

Leonardo Vin Santo 2005 DOC Bianco dell'Empolese 16.5% €28.99 per 50cl bottleVin santo, or holy wine, is a sweet wine made from dried grapes, traditionally aged for long periods in small oak casks. It is a speciality of Tuscany, although it seems likely to have originated in Greece.

There are various theories as to how it got its name, including miraculous cures. This has concentrated slightly figs and dried fruits, nicely balanced by good tangy orange peel acidity, finishing sweet but fresh. I would be delighted to receive this at the altar. In Tuscany it is traditionally served with cantucci at the end of a meal. Stockists: Donnybrook Fair; 64 Wine, Glasthule; La Touche Wines, Greystones; Lilac Wines, Fairview; The Parting Glass, Enniskerry; Simply Wines, Dublin 18; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; World Wide Wines, Waterford.

Ecclesia Pure Altar Wine 15% €9.99Ecclesia, which is made in Spain, is labelled as "Pure Altar Wine", and "approved by ecclesiastical authority and complies with Canon Law".

At 15 per cent alcohol and very sweet, I am sure it has been fortified with grape brandy (as with sherry and port) in order to give stability. In fact it tastes like a fairly watery cream sherry. Stockists: Mitchell Son, Sandycove, IFSC and mitchellandson.com

Grüner Veltliner 2010, Schloss Gobelsburg, Austria 12.5% €13.50Schloss Gobelsburg is one of the few estates still owned by a religious order, in this case the Cistercians. However, it is now leased to Michael Moosbrugger, a talented winemaker. This featured as one of my Wines of the Year in 2011, and a recent bottle was proved it is still drinking just as well. Lovely lively crisp dry wine with plump pear fruits. Stockists: Liston's, Camden St; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; Redmond's, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Martin's, Fairview; McHugh's Kilbarrack Malahide Road; Red Island Wine Co, Skerries; Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin 2; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Gibney's, Malahide; Probus Wines, Fenian Street, Dublin 2; Probus Wines, Oughterard, Galway.